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Aug 28, 2016

Shop-built Inspection Camera Lends Optical Help on a Budget

Shop-built Inspection Camera Lends Optical Help on a Budget:

As your builds get smaller and your eyes get older, you might appreciate a little optical assistance around the shop. Stereo microscopes and inspection cameras are great additions to your bench, but often command a steep price. So this DIY PCB inspection microscope might be just the thing if you’re looking to roll your own and save a few bucks.

It’s not fancy, and it’s not particularly complex, but [Saulius]’ build does the job, mainly because he thought the requirements through before starting the build. MDF is used for the stand because it’s dimensionally stable, easy to work, and heavy, which tends to stabilize motion and dampen vibration. The camera itself is an off-the-shelf USB unit with a CS mount that allows a wide range of lenses to be fitted. A $20 eBay macro slider allows for fine positioning, and a ring light stolen from a stereo microscope provides shadow-free lighting.

We’d say the most obvious area for improvement would be a linkage on the arm to keep the plane of the lens parallel to the bench, but even as it is this looks like a solid build with a lot of utility – especially for hackers looking to age in place at the bench.



Filed under: digital cameras hacks, tool hacks


Original enclosures:


ad516503a11cd5ca435acc9bb6523536?s=96

Mar 31, 2016

VoCore: A Cheap And Coin-sized Linux Computer With Wi-Fi

VoCore: A Cheap And Coin-sized Linux Computer With Wi-Fi:



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VoCore is an open source hardware that runs OpenWRT Linux. This tiny computer comes with Wi-Fi, USB, 20+ GPIOs that will help you to embed it on your projects.

With each passing day, mini computer boards are getting more and more popular. Single board computers like Raspberry Pi, CHIP, OrangePi etc. are being endorsed by makers and DIY enthusiasts to create new innovations. However, if you are looking for an even smaller Linux computer, VoCore is the perfect device for you.
VoCore: A Cheap And Coin-sized Linux Computer With Wi-Fi – [Link]

The post VoCore: A Cheap And Coin-sized Linux Computer With Wi-Fi appeared first on Electronics-Lab.

Mar 29, 2016

Start Your Poultry Brood with This DIY Egg Incubator

Start Your Poultry Brood with This DIY Egg Incubator:

You’d think that hatching chicks from eggs would be easy – after all, birds do it. But it turns out to be a fussy business for humans, and what momma bird does naturally isn’t necessarily easy for us. If your goal is to raise your own brood of peeps, fear not – this DIY egg incubator makes the process much easier.

While [Chris Raynerd]’s incubator was built for quail eggs, pretty much any domestic fowl – chickens, turkeys, ducks, pheasants – will work. The key is temperature control – momma bird’s rump is a natural heat source, and her downy feathers keep the eggs insulated and toasty. That’s a little hard to replicate in a free-air incubator, so [Chris] started with a polystyrene box for insulation. A halogen lamp on a digital thermostat provides most of the heat and keeps the temperature within a degree or two of 37°C. As a backup, a 12 volt halogen bulb on a dimmer keeps the chamber at a minimum of 36°, just in case the main lamp burns out. A small fan and a pan for humidifying water complete the atmospheric controls, although personally we’d arrange the fan to blow across the water to aid evaporation. And a simple grid lets [Chris] turn the eggs regularly, which is another vital service mom provides to her brood.

Sure, it could be Arduino-fied and servo driven, but why bother? This is a simple yet thoughtful build that should see a clutch through to hatching. We’ve seen a few egg incubators before, but even if you’re not interested in raising fowl, the techniques here could easily apply to incubators for biohacking or yogurt making, too.







Filed under: misc hacks


Original enclosures:
incubator_featured.png?w=250
ad516503a11cd5ca435acc9bb6523536?s=96

Getting Started With the ATMega328P

Getting Started With the ATMega328P:



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Here is a detailed guide on how to get started with ATMega328P microcontroller. The guide goes in details on how to setup it on a breadboard and how to upload your first code on it. and blink a led.

The real benefit of using this microcontroller is that it’s only $4 US, whereas many other micro-controllers are 10X that price. It can also be easily programmed in the universal programming language, C++. The ATMega is also equipped with a decent amount of memory for any project.
Getting Started With the ATMega328P – [Link]

The post Getting Started With the ATMega328P appeared first on Electronics-Lab.

Mar 28, 2016

LiFePO4wered/Pi – LiFePO4 battery for Raspberry Pi

LiFePO4wered/Pi – LiFePO4 battery for Raspberry Pi:



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Patrick Van Oosterwijck has published a LiFePO4 battery solution for Raspberry Pi that will also act as UPS power supply:

The project is built on top of a LiFePO4wered/USB module. A small board is added with an MSP430G2131 microcontroller that takes care of monitoring input and output voltage, monitoring a PCB touch button, driving a power indicator LED and switching the load (the Raspberry Pi power). The microcontroller is also connected to the Pi’s I2C bus and monitors the Pi’s running state. The small board connects to 8 of the Pi’s GPIO pins but leaves the rest free to allow prototyping using fly leads.
LiFePO4wered/Pi – LiFePO4 battery for Raspberry Pi – [Link]

The post LiFePO4wered/Pi – LiFePO4 battery for Raspberry Pi appeared first on Electronics-Lab.

Mar 25, 2016

Hacking The Raspberry Pi WiFi Antenna For More dB

Hacking The Raspberry Pi WiFi Antenna For More dB:

I’ve been testing out the Raspberry Pi 3, and one thing I have found is that the WiFi antenna that was added in this new model is not especially good: the Pi has trouble connecting to my WiFi network in places that other devices have no issues. That’s not surprising, because the antenna on the Pi 3 is tiny: mounted right next to the display connector, it is just a few millimeters wide. [Ward] at DorkbotPDX agrees, so he decided to look into adding a better antenna by adding an external connector.

He tried two approaches: replacing the antenna with a tail connector, and adding a U.FL connector to the unused solder pads on the board. Both require some delicate soldering work, so they aren’t approached lightly. Replacing the antenna with an external connector produced a significant increase in signal output, which should equate with more range for the WiFi connection.

It is also interesting to note that the Pi 3 has solder pads on the board to add an external antenna connector, but that they are not used. Plus, one of the solder pads is covered by solder mask. Using these is the second approach that [Ward] used, soldering on a U.FL connector and connecting that to a small rubber duckie antenna. Again, this proved more efficient, increasing the power output of the antenna significantly.

NOTE: This hack definitely falls into “Don’t try this at home” territory. Messing with antennas voids the warranty and FCC certification for the Pi, and can cause all sorts of signal-related unpleasantness if you aren’t careful.



Filed under: Raspberry Pi


Original enclosures:
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ad516503a11cd5ca435acc9bb6523536?s=96

Internet-of-Things Power Meter

Internet-of-Things Power Meter:



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This is a simple, cheap, easy to build IoT Power Meter that provides accurate statistics on household power consumption:

The Internet-of-Things Power Meter (IPM) is a device fixed on top of the regular household power meter that provides detailed information about the electricity usage. Modern power meters have a LED blinking every time a Watt is used, the IPM detects these flashes using a light sensor, counts them, saves the values to an SD card. Later the data is stored to the cloud.
Internet-of-Things Power Meter – [Link]

The post Internet-of-Things Power Meter appeared first on Electronics-Lab.

Improved Arduino Rotary Encoder Reading

Improved Arduino Rotary Encoder Reading:



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Here is a nice tutorial on how to use rotary encoders with Arduino. Example code is included.

I wanted to use a low cost rotary encoder as an input mechanism for one of my upcoming projects and was initially bewildered by the code options available to take readings from the rotary encoder and determine how many “detents” or cycles the encoder had clicked past and in what direction.
Improved Arduino Rotary Encoder Reading – [Link]

The post Improved Arduino Rotary Encoder Reading appeared first on Electronics-Lab.

Mar 15, 2016

Setting up ESP8266 based DS18B20 sensor temperature monitoring with Emoncms

Setting up ESP8266 based DS18B20 sensor temperature monitoring with Emoncms

http://www.instructables.com/id/Esp8266-Sensor-Temperarture-DS18B20-to-Emoncms/

If you are looking for ways of measuring and logging temperature data online, then you can try this one. Jhon_Control describes his setup in this instructable where uses ESP8266 module as microcontroller platform where DS18B20 probe is attached. As you may already know, ESP8266 has two programmable GPIO where one was used for reading temperature using 1-wire protocol.



The temperature data is sent via wireless interface, but additionally it can be read via serial interface where other debugging information is present. The other part of project is where temperature data goes. He has chosen OpenEnergyMonitor (Emoncms) – the web platform which can be freely installed on your local host computer and even Raspberry Pi. Here you can have nice representation of data including graphs, history, calculations, and other fancy stuff. You can start with single sensor, then expand to multiple and even join data from different sources and locations.

Mar 11, 2016

5A Adjustable Regulated Power Supply

5A Adjustable Regulated Power Supply:



5A_Adjustable_Regulated_Power_Supply_G006


This project provides a variable output voltage ranging from 1.2 to 32 V @ 5 A. Project based on LM338K IC, LM338K is adjustable 3 terminal positive voltage regulator capable of supply in excess of 5A over a 1.2V to 32V output range, simple circuit consist few components.

Features

  • Input Supply : 24 VAC or 30 VDC, 5 Amp
  • Output : variable output from 1.2 to 32 V @ 5 A regulated low ripple DC voltage
  • Heatsink for regulator IC
  • Onboard bridge rectifier to convert AC to DC
  • LED indication at input of IC
  • Thermal overload/short circuit protection (provided by IC feature)
5A Adjustable Regulated Power Supply – [Link]

The post 5A Adjustable Regulated Power Supply appeared first on Electronics-Lab.

How to Implement Embedded Ethernet

How to Implement Embedded Ethernet:



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Maurizio @ dev.emcelettronica.com has tipped us with his latest article on how to implement embedded Ethernet on any mcu. The article shows the basic principle of Ethernet implementation.

Usually We need embedded systems inside devices, particularly the so-called intelligent devices, to communicate with a command/control/administrative center. Typical such situations could be a remote security camera that can send you video clips when queried, an embedded system that can send status when checked through a web browser or a vending machine that is capable of sending an email when service is required.
How to Implement Embedded Ethernet – [Link]

The post How to Implement Embedded Ethernet appeared first on Electronics-Lab.

Wifi Home Thermostat

Wifi Home Thermostat:



thermostat


asheville makers @ instructables.com has posted a Wifi enabled thermostat that can be programmed via a touch screen display or via the internet.

This Instructable explains about how I built WiFi enabled thermostats for my home. The thermostats are programmable with 6 different time periods during the day, although increasing that to any arbitrary number would be fairly trivial.
Wifi Home Thermostat – [Link]

The post Wifi Home Thermostat appeared first on Electronics-Lab.

Hardware serial port monitor over WiFi

Hardware serial port monitor over WiFi:



Arduino_TX_Wifi


This tutorial shows how to connect Arduino to the TX line (of a router, RPI) and display serial data on smartphone over WiFi.

Arduino listens for serial port communication on its hardware serial port. Then it sends every received line of data trough software serial port to ESP8266. ESP8266 puts every received line of data into circular buffer. ESP8266 also runs code for webserver and a website which pools the buffer for new data and displays it on the website. (Sadly there is no websockets support for ESP8266.) To see this serial data all you have to do is open the website (IP) on your smartphone and enable javascript.
Hardware serial port monitor over WiFi – [Link]

The post Hardware serial port monitor over WiFi appeared first on Electronics-Lab.

Attiny10 miniature breakout board

Attiny10 miniature breakout board:

If you want your microcontroller to fit in tight spaces you need to use very small packages. One optin is to choose Atmel Attiny10 microcontroller which is really tiny. It has 6 pins, where 4 of them are I/O. It features 1KB of Flash, 32B of RAM and can be clocked at 12MHz. Power supply can vary between 1.8V to 5.5V. They come in two types of packages – SOT-23 and UDFN.



attiny10_breakout


Dan Watson have built a mini breakout board for Attiny10 mincrocontroller. He wanted it to be really small and came out with size similar to 5mm LED head. To reduce size, he used small pitch (0.05”) header pins that doesn’t fit to breadboard. So additionally he made a special adapter board to be able to program it with standard ISP programmer.



attiny10_programmer_adapter


Don be fooled by its size, it packs enough power to perform some great tasks. If you are willing to use assembly language, you can really squeeze out some serious juice of it.

Feb 27, 2016

Homemade Mini Dremel Tool

Homemade Mini Dremel Tool:

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Hello!This is my first instructable... hope to like it :)I wanted to buy dremel tools but they are very expensive, so I decided to make it myself, mixing ideas from more sites, images, yt videos etc.The good side of my instructable is that the dremel works, but unfortunately it has a bad side... It ...

By: bostroglav



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DIY PVC Clamp

DIY PVC Clamp:

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This was a feasibility study to see if I could make a low cost clamp out of PVC pipe. I made this one out of "200 psi" because it was what I had handy. I recently saw an I'ble by someone else making clamps by sawing it into bands and cutting slots in the bands. I cannot find his post, so I can...

By: graydog111



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Feb 18, 2016

ESP8266 client-server based wireless weather station

ESP8266 client-server based wireless weather station:

If you ever tried to build weather station, you probably know that wired solution sucks. For something more serious always go with wireless – this way you are not limited by distance and setup looks clean. Rui Santos have been working on wireless weather station where he implements server-client solution with two ESP8266 modules. Client module takes care of reading temperature from DS18B20 sensor and reads ADC value on one pin. Server side module receives data and transfers to PC using serial interface using FTDI adapter.



ESP8266 weather station


He used Things Gateway – software written by Roberto Valgolio. It allows reading and writing data from/to microcontroller using excel, csv, send emails and display charts. All you need is to configure Things Gateway to accepts serial data and point it to excel spreadsheet tabs. Once you have it working, you can start adding more sensors like barometric pressure, light, humidity, wind speed, rain and so on.

ESP8266 client-server based wireless weather station

ESP8266 client-server based wireless weather station:

If you ever tried to build weather station, you probably know that wired solution sucks. For something more serious always go with wireless – this way you are not limited by distance and setup looks clean. Rui Santos have been working on wireless weather station where he implements server-client solution with two ESP8266 modules. Client module takes care of reading temperature from DS18B20 sensor and reads ADC value on one pin. Server side module receives data and transfers to PC using serial interface using FTDI adapter.



ESP8266 weather station


He used Things Gateway – software written by Roberto Valgolio. It allows reading and writing data from/to microcontroller using excel, csv, send emails and display charts. All you need is to configure Things Gateway to accepts serial data and point it to excel spreadsheet tabs. Once you have it working, you can start adding more sensors like barometric pressure, light, humidity, wind speed, rain and so on.

Wireless energy monitor using ESP8266 module

Wireless energy monitor using ESP8266 module:

Most of us are concern about energy usage. This helps to reduce bills, have a little impact on saving planet and be conscious about things you never thought being important. For the right task you need right tools. Brian Dorey have been successful on building energy metering. His previous Raspberry Pi based solar data logger gave him enough experience to move on with new idea of mains energy meter. This time he decided to use ESP8266 wireless module to do the main load. It has enough processing power to deal with sensor data also there are plenty of Arduino based libraries to make development easier.



energy_meter


His energy meter was designed to do three measurements: mains current, mains electric usage and gas usage. All three data streams had to be gathered in three different ways. First of all mains current. He used iSnail current sensor which simply outputs 0-5V for 0-100A current range. All he had to do is to read sensor output voltage with ADS1115 16-bit ADC from Texas Instruments. The data could be read using I2C interface.

He used clever method to detect mains energy usage. It turned out that installed meter has an LED which blinks every single Wh is used. By capturing LED blink with phototransistor he was able to collect and accumulate the value.

Third thing he wanted to do is to measure gas usage. Since there is no electricity flow the measurements had to be done in different way. His gas usage meter uses mechanical wheel with small magnet. So he used reed switch to capture wheel turns and this way accumulate gas usage.

Brian used FRAM memory chip to store accumulated values in case of power cut. For this he used FM24CL04B 4Kb FRAM from Cypress which can also be accessed via I2C interface. The second part of his meter was to send data using wireless transmission. For this purpose he used expanded the functionality of his Raspberry data logger to accept XML formatted data which then could be fed in to web server. If this project looks interesting, all project files are available on Github.

Feb 17, 2016

A 3D Printed Jet Engine Appears to Function

A 3D Printed Jet Engine Appears to Function:

[amazingdiyprojects] has been working on a 3D printable jet engine. You may remember seeing a 3D printed jet engine grace our front page back in October. That one was beautiful didn’t function. This one flips those values around. [amazingdiyprojects] seems to make a living from selling plans for his projects, so naturally most of the details of the build are hidden from us. But from what we can see in the video clips there are some really interesting solutions here.

Some of the parts appear to be hand-formed sheet metal. Others are vitamins like bearings and an electric starter. We really liked the starter mechanism, pressing in the motor to engage with a spline, or perhaps by friction, to give the starting rotation.

What really caught our attention was casting the hot parts of the printer in refractory cement using a 3D printed mold. It reminds us of the concrete lathes from World War 1. We wonder what other things could be built using this method? Flame nozzles for a foundry? A concrete tea-kettle. It’s pretty cool.

We’re interested to see how the jet engine performs and how others will improve on the concept. Video of it in action after the break.

UPDATE: [amazingdiyprojects] posted a video of the engine being disassembled.



UPDATE:







Feb 14, 2016

New ATEX-certified explosion-proof enclosures

New ATEX-certified explosion-proof enclosures:



atx_group_hr
Bud Industries has introduced an ATEX certified enclosure for use in settings that may have explosive atmospheres caused by gases, vapors, mists or air/dust mixtures. Application environments include chemical and pharmaceutical processors, petrochemical sites, nutrients processors, wood and metal grinding operations, and other powder/dust operations.

Made of heavy-duty die-cast aluminum and sealed with a continuous silicon rubber gasket, the ATX Series enclosures are rated for explosive atmospheres such as grain dust and conductive dust (Zones 21, 22). It is certified to ATEX II 2 G Ex e IIC Gb and ATEX II 2 D Ex tb IIIC Db. Also it is UL listed and rated at IP66 per the IEC 60529 standard.

Ten sizes are available ranging from 2.95 x 3.15 x 2.24 to 14.17 x 6.30 x 3.54 inches.

The ATEX Series enclosure is suitable for harsh environments. The aluminum body is powder coated, and captive screws in the cover are made of stainless steel. It has a service temperature range of – 50 °C to +135 °C, allowing its use in a wide range of indoor and outdoor applications.

It comes with four copper-plated ground screws in the body for ground and plate assembly. Optional accessories include aluminum internal mounting plate and external mounting brackets.

Per ATEX requirements, these enclosures will maintain their rating only if they are modified by the factory in India. If the knowledge that the un-modified box passed the requirements is sufficient, then Bud’s industry-leading 5-day modifications program can be utilized. Bud provides custom modifications at no extra cost within five to six days … 2-3 times faster than most other enclosure suppliers.

Bud Industries
budind.com

The post New ATEX-certified explosion-proof enclosures appeared first on Design World.

An Arduino-Powered Laser Engraver That You Can Build

An Arduino-Powered Laser Engraver That You Can Build:





MichielD99 is a 16 year old Belgian teenage maker. It is amazing that, with the tools and materials available today, a young person, really any person, can create something as sophisticated and professional-looking as this laser engraver.

To drive the machine, he used an Arduino UNO with two NEMA-17 stepper motors and stepper motor drivers he got from AliEXpress. By using AliExpress, he was able to keep the component costs down, with the entire thing costing about US$220. The laser is a 1.8W 445nm module.

Michiel designed the device in such a way that he can also install a Dremel tool as the head. This will allow him to turn it into a CNC router when he wants to.
You can see the complete plans for his build on this Instructables page. There he also includes a Bill of Materials with links to all of the parts available online and PDF and STL versions of all of the template files used to create his engraver.





Source: An Arduino-Powered Laser Engraver That You Can Build

Fish’n Tweets

Fish’n Tweets:

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With this project we’ll show a practical application of our Fishino board that allows a very simple and cheap way to control remote appliances as lamps, heaters, climatizers, alarms, etc.

The peculiarity of our system is that it doesn’t need any external support server nor special network interface boards, but just a Fishino UNO board and possibly one or more relay boards to drive connected loads. This application which can’t be done with a simple Arduino, even not if provided with a common WiFi or Ethernet shield, has been made possible by Fishino’s capability to handle secure connections with HTTPS protocol, which is usually available on more expensive boards; to stay into Arduino world, now at least a YUN board is needed to achieve same purpose, and with a more complex software.

There are many possibilities for the remote control of electric appliances, each with own Pro and Cons.





fig_b




Let’s see an incomplete list of them:

  • Control by SMS – Advantages:
    • Receiver can be portable and independent of network infrastructures
    • Fast – commands are executed almost instantly
    • Can be controlled from any cell phone, even from older ones
    • Practically unlimited rangeCaveats:
    • A SIM card is needed on controlled board, which usually has an expiration time
    • It needs a GSM board, not very cheap
    • It needs GSM network coverage, not everywhere available
  • Radio control – Advantages:
    • Receiver can be portable and independent of network infrastructures
    • Fast – commands are executed almost instantly
    • Very chealCaveats:
    • Very limited range
    • Range depends on obstacles between sender and receiver
  • Remote control over internet – Advantages:
    • Can be made portabled at the price of a GPRS board
    • Can be controlled by any PC or recent cell phone
    • Quite cheap if you’ve a network infrastructure in place
    • Can be made bidirectional with no costCaveats:
    • A network infrasctructure or a GPRS board is needed, which can be expensive
    • Stability depends on network conditions
    • Response times can be very variable
    • Often it needs complicated boards and/or support external PC
    • Usually a public IP or a way to bypass this limitation is needed,
    • Security problems are always possible
Fishino UNO

Tire Codes

Tire Codes:

Have you ever wondered what the meaning of numerous codes written on the sidewall of tires could be?
These codes are meant to help you  buy the right tire. And also save your life!
Do you  know that those codes contain information about the type of vehicle to be used with it, Car tire expiration date, size of rim, load and speed ratings? Using a wrong tire can cause fatal accident. Now these codes can really save your life.
Usually, a tire will have similar to P205/60R16 90H printed on its sidewall.




2000px-Tire_code_-_en.svg.png



Tire Type
Tire Type The letter "P" at the beginning of the "Tire Size" tells us that the tire is a P-Metric tire, referring to tires made to certain standards within the United States, intended for Passenger vehicles.

If a tire size has no letters at the beginning, this indicates a Euro metric tire. Also note that P-Metric and Euro-Metric tires may have different load capacities.

The letters "LT," either at the beginning or at the end of the tire size indicate the tire was designed for light trucks. Vehicle manufacturers equip some light trucks with "LT" type tires. These tires generally require higher inflation pressures than passenger tires.

T on the other hand means Truck vehicles.
http://mechanicstips.blogspot.com/feeds/posts/default?alt=rss

Car Dashboard Symbols

Car Dashboard Symbols:

Have you ever wondered what the lights on your vehicle’s dashboard mean? Some are obvious, but others might have you flipping through the pages of your owner’s manual. To make things easier, we scoured the net to find this handy guide.





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Dashboard lights commonly inform drivers about problems like poor battery condition, low oil pressure and high engine temperature. But many cars now have lights for service interval indicators and seatbelt reminders along with malfunctions ranging from faulty anti-skid stability control to blocked air and fuel filters, defective diesel filters or fuel contaminated by water.
http://mechanicstips.blogspot.com/feeds/posts/default?alt=rss

Jan 25, 2016

Turn Your Old Laptop Into a DIY Hideaway Media Center for TV

Turn Your Old Laptop Into a DIY Hideaway Media Center for TV:

Turn Your Old Laptop Into a DIY Hideaway Media Center for TV





Remote Wi-Fi DHT11 Temperature an Humidity I2C 2 X 16 LCD Display With Two ESP8266 and Visuino

Remote Wi-Fi DHT11 Temperature an Humidity I2C 2 X 16 LCD Display With Two ESP8266 and Visuino:

F3DY8Y4IJRHPVJB.SMALL.jpg
ESP8266 modules are great low cost stand alone controllers with built in Wi-Fi, and I already made a simple Blink instructable with ESP8266 NodeMCU module.The advantage of the ESP8266 over Arduino and other controllers is the builtin Wi-Fi. In this Instructable I will show you how with the help of V...

By: BoianM



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Arduino As Stand Alone. Burn Bootloader.

Arduino As Stand Alone. Burn Bootloader.:

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Sometimes I need quick hint how to create standalone arduino MC, but when I click buttons in wrong order or connect wires in a wrong way, it brings me to frustration and extra time to figure out where is the problem. So here is quick screenshots of step by step bootloader burn and sketch upload.

By: aequanimitas



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LM35 Temperature Sensor with Datalogging on SD card on Intel Edison

LM35 Temperature Sensor with Datalogging on SD card on Intel Edison:

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- Demonstrates the use of an LM35 sensor on Intel Edison to measure temperature over extended periods ranging from several hours to weeks and logs the temperature readings from the sensor to an SD card inserted onboard, all necessary things such as time interval between two consecutive readings, eit...

By: vishal1502



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Ir Remote Camera Shutter for Android Phone

Ir Remote Camera Shutter for Android Phone:

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For you're like photo selfie, definitely should have a tool that could make it easier to take foto.there are some tools that can be used which can be purchased at amazon(or other online shop).you can choose between taking the cable connected headset or connected with bluetooth.now i make which can b...

By: agoe3es_one



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2 MINUTE ARDUINO LASER ALARM

2 MINUTE ARDUINO LASER ALARM:

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WHAT YOU NEEDArduino LaserBreadboardJumper wiresLED10K Resistor CONNECTIONS First connect you resistor to the photo resistor and then that end will go to the - row in the board then the photo resistor will go to A0 on the arduino and the other end to 5V and the LED simply goes to pin 13 on the a...

By: Jacks how2s



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Burning an Arduino bootloader to a new ATMEGA328-AU chip #Arduino

Burning an Arduino bootloader to a new ATMEGA328-AU chip #Arduino:



Thanks to Lalindra for sending in this video! Lalindra writes:

Just wanted to share a video that I created. Its on how to burn an Arduino bootloader to a new ATMEGA328-AU chip.
See more

Jan 24, 2016

Make a workbench fan from an old microwave oven exhaust fan

Make a workbench fan from an old microwave oven exhaust fan:

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I always like to salvage usable parts off of things before I recycle them. So when replacing a microwave oven, I salvaged the fan and starter capacitor.I found this two-speed fan to be quite-powerful (300-400 cfm), and directional. Which gave me the idea of making a fan for my workbench that blew ac...

By: psdhowto



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How to Build a Wankel Engine (and How It Works)

How to Build a Wankel Engine (and How It Works):

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This is for my AP Physics C class.Wankel Rotary engines are quite ingenious. They arose as an attempt to challenge piston-based engines, and proved that sufficient power can be created without the reciprocating motion of pistons. They rely on very few moving parts to produce a power output and manag...

By: stoyanAPC



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Simple small QRO for HF

Simple small QRO for HF:



IMG_8931-600


Marko Pavlin has been working on a HF amplifier project:

I followed the ARRL Homberw challenge 50 watt aplifier entry. It is low cost, simple HF linear amplifier designed and built by the author as an entry in the ARRL’s 2009 Homebrew Challenge contest. The requirements of the amplifier were: 40 meter band 50 watt output amplifier intended for use with a QRP transmitter as driver (less than 5W), constructed at a total material cost of not over $125.00.

I redesigned author original design an put it on the double sided PCB with additional output banpass filters. I started with first prototype. It worked quite well for short periods. Main disadvantage was lack of heat sink. Then I soldered second prototype with proper transistor cooling. I also wound correct transformer using binocular ferrite cores

Next step was designing PCB. I started with the schematic diagram based on original project
Project info at Mare & Gal Electronics homepage.



ESP8266 mains energy monitor

ESP8266 mains energy monitor:



pcb-in-case-600x306


Brian Dorey has designed a mains energy monitor based on ESP8266 that have sensors for the mains current, electric meter and gas meter.

As the new solar logger did not have this functionality we decided to design a new data-logger that would measure not only the mains current usage but also keep track of the electric meter and gas meter so we can easily see how much energy we are using in the house.

The new mains energy monitor was designed to be a standalone box that would be powered from the mains and have sensors for the mains current, electric meter and gas meter. As we didn’t want to run any more wires around the house we also decided to make it wireless connecting to our network over Wi-Fi.
ESP8266 mains energy monitor – [Link]

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Battery Powered Frequency Meter (0 to 20kHz)

Battery Powered Frequency Meter (0 to 20kHz):

The circuit is a simple digital frequency meter that is made of a frequency-to-voltage converter and an analog-to-digital display converter that can be operatedfrom a single 9-volt battery. The TC7126 ADC generates the voltage required by the TC9400 FVC with internal regulators. The TC7126 is designed to directly drive a 3-1/2 digit, non-multiplexed LCD display so no digital conversion is required.

The input circuit is made up of a current limiting resistor (33kΩ), a DC blocking capacitor (0.01µF), a clamping diode (1N914), and a biasing resistor (1MΩ). The diode acts as a soft clamp to prevent negative going transitions from latching the comparator input and the 33kΩ resistor limits the current during the positive transitions. The gain (VOUT vs. FREQIN) of the TC9400 is determined by the charge-balance capacitor and the integrator feedback resistor (620kΩ) that has been selected for an output of approximately +2V (referenced to ANALOG COMMON) with frequency input of 20kHz. The bias resistor (12kΩ) determined the input threshold of the comparator and has been selected for an input sensitivity range of 250mV to 10V peak-to-peak of a sine or square wave on the input of the FVC.

The TC7126 will have a maximum positive input of about 2V since the input is referenced to ANALOG COMMON that is only 3V below V+. The internal voltage swing of the integrator does not have the same limitation because a positive input results in a negative swing of the integration. A fully charged battery will give a range of about 6V. The integration components (1MΩ and 0.047µF) at pins VBUFF and VIN are selected, in conjunction with the oscillator frequency to have an integrator ramp amplitude of about –3V with a 2V input from the TC9400. The oscillator is set up to run at 48kHz (150kΩ and 50pF) for maximum rejection of stray power-line pickup. This will result in the TC7126 running at three conversions per second.

Battery Powered Frequency Meter (0 to 20kHz) – [Link]

The post Battery Powered Frequency Meter (0 to 20kHz) appeared first on Electronics-Lab.

555 Based DC Motor Speed Controller

555 Based DC Motor Speed Controller:



M005


555 DC Motor Speed Controller project will control the speed of a DC motor connected to it. This project is built using the popular 555 timer IC.

Specifications

  • Power supply input 5-12V DC
  • Motor Load Up to 1 to 2Amps
  • Onboard preset to vary Duty Cycle from 10% to 95% @ 120 Hz
  • Ideal for mini drill and robotics application
  • Transistor based output drive with heat-sink
  • Diode protection for motor surge
  • Power-On LED indicator
  • Screw terminal connector for easy power supply input and output-Motor connection
  • Four mounting holes of 3.2 mm each
  • PCB dimensions 47 mm x 56 mm
555 Based DC Motor Speed Controller – [Link]

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Simple Arduino SD-Card GPS/NMEA Datalogger

Simple Arduino SD-Card GPS/NMEA Datalogger:



20160122_134926-1024x576


KF5OBS @ jaunty-electronics.com shows us how to build a minimalistic GPS datalogger. The GPS logger is based on the Arduino platform and stores raw NMEA sentences from pretty much any GPS module to a SD card.

For a project I needed to log GPS information. I had various GPS modules and plenty of Arduinos laying around the lab. At first I intended for the Arduino to capture data from the GPS module, process it and then store it onto a SD card. However, I discarded that idea in favor of more flexibility and now use the arduino merely as pass-thru device for the raw GPS data.
Simple Arduino SD-Card GPS/NMEA Datalogger – [Link]

The post Simple Arduino SD-Card GPS/NMEA Datalogger appeared first on Electronics-Lab.

Up Your Tiny House Game with Stone Age Hacks

Up Your Tiny House Game with Stone Age Hacks:

Bare feet, bare hands, and bare chest – if it weren’t for the cargo shorts and the brief sound of a plane overhead, we’d swear the video below was footage that slipped through a time warp. No Arduinos, no CNC or 3D anything, but if you doubt that our Stone Age ancestors were hackers, watch what [PrimitiveTechnology] goes through while building a tile-roofed hut with no modern tools.

The first thing we’ll point out is that [PrimitiveTechnology] is not attempting to be (pre-)historically accurate. He borrows technology from different epochs in human history for his build – tiled roofs didn’t show up until about 5,000 years ago, by which time his stone celt axe would have been obsolete. But the point of the primitive technology hobby is to build something without using any modern technology. If you need a fire, you use a fire bow; if you need an axe, shape a rock. And his 102 day build log details every step of the way. It’s fascinating to watch logs, mud, saplings, rocks and clay come together into a surprisingly cozy structure. Especially awesome if a bit anachronistic is the underfloor central heating system, which could turn the hut into a lovely sauna.

Primitive technology looks like a fascinating hobby with a lot to teach us about how we got to now. But if you’re not into grubbing in the mud, you could always 3D print a clay hut. We’re not sure building an enormous delta-bot is any easier, though.




https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P73REgj-3UE



Thanks to [Rockyd] for the tip.

How to Use Lidar with the Raspberry Pi

How to Use Lidar with the Raspberry Pi:

The ability to inexpensively but accurately measure distance between an autonomous vehicle or robot and nearby objects is a challenging problem for hackers. Knowing the distance is key to obstacle avoidance. Running into something with a small robot may be a trivial problem but could be deadly with a big one like an autonomous vehicle.

My interest in distance measurement for obstacle avoidance stems from my entry in the 2013 NASA Sample Return Robot (SRR) Competition. I used a web camera for vision processing and attempted various visual techniques for making measurements, without a lot of success. At the competition, two entrants used scanning lidars which piqued my interest in them.



A lidar is a laser range measurement device. The name is a combination of the terms LIght and raDAR and not, as commonly suggested, an acronym derived in a manner similar to its forerunner, “RAdio Detection And Ranging”. The term was first used in 1963 according to Merriam-Webster. Some of the early use of lidar was measuring clouds and the surface of the moon by Apollo 13. As lasers were reduced in size, other uses were found, including as a rangefinder for military purposes.



Commercial Lidar
Neato Lidar




A single laser beam can only provide the range to a single object. Just as aircraft control radar swings a beam through the sky, a scanning lidar sweeps the laser. The application of lidar for autonomous mobile devices requires scanning of a wide area both vertically and horizontally to provide a point cloud of distance measurements. Something similar might be done with an infra-red sensor, as we’ve seen previously but the accuracy is not as good as with a laser.

Distance measurement can be done in multiple ways but there are two principal ones used. One measures the time of flight of a laser pulse while the other uses the angle of deflection of the laser beam.

Time of Flight Measurement

You’re familiar with how basic radar and sonar works – send out a pulse and measure the time it takes to receive the return signal. The time divided by the speed of light or sound gives you the distance the signal traveled out and back. Divide that by two to get the distance to the object. That’s time of flight (ToF) measurement.

As you might suspect things get tricky given the speed of light. A pioneer in computers, Rear Admiral Grace “Amazing Grace” Hopper would hand out 11.80” pieces of wire to demonstrate the distance light travels in a nanosecond in vacuum. With robots that is the magnitude of the distance we’re interested in measuring. It’s difficult to measure less than a meter sending out just a pulse and timing the return signal because the signal returns in about 7 nanoseconds.

One technique around this is to continuously modulate the signal by amplitude or frequency. The phase difference between the transmitted and received signals is proportional to the distance to the object. A lidar using modulation can measure down to centimeters.

There are a number of commercial providers of ToF based scanning lidars but the price is a bit higher than the most hobbyist’s would spend. A relatively new entrant, PulsedLight, offered a single beam ToF lidar within the price range of hackers but their suppliers are all back ordered.



tof
triangulation






Triangulation

The triangulation lidar uses the same technique as the Sharp infra-red distance measuring sensors which hackers have been using for years. The transmitter is a single source but the receiver is a 1 or 2 dimensional array of receivers. The offset of the receiver elements from the transmitter creates the baseline of a triangle. The outgoing and return signal are the other two sides of the triangle. Simple trigonometry provides the distance from the baseline to the object.

The Optical Society describes these and other techniques used for measuring distance.

Neato Robotics Vacuum Lidar

What I didn’t know when competing in the 2013 NASA SRR is that Neato Robotics released a vacuum cleaner in 2010 using a scanning lidar to sense the vacuum’s surroundings. This allows the robot to avoid obstacles instead of bumping into them as previous robot vacuum’s were doing.



XV-11_Lidar-400x240
Sparkfun did a tear down of the vacuum and investigated the lidar. A long discussion starting in November of 2010 ensued on the Trossen Robotic forum as hackers dissected the vacuum with much attention to the lidar. There were even small prizes offered for hacking the lidar.

Unfortunately a number of the links in that thread no longer exist but it is still worth reading since many details are laid out in the messages. Some other threads on the forum have additional information. One especially interesting find is a research paper that preceded the Neato lidar but served as the basis for the final design. It outlined the details necessary for Neato to create an engineered product.

The good news is a wiki exists with a summary of information about the vacuum and the lidar. One of the active hacking participants, [Nicolas “Xevel” Saugnier] created a small USB interface board to power the lidar and connect to its serial interface. In the summer of 2014 I obtained a couple of the lidar units and the boards as I looked toward entering the 2015 NASA SRR. I got the lidar units working using [Xevel’s] Python software and packages available in the Robot Operating System.

The scanning lidar allowed Neato Robotics to implement Simultaneous Localization and Mapping (SLAM) using the distance measurement data. This allows the robot to plan the cleaning path rather than using the previous bump and random movements, a Drunkard’s Walk, of earlier vacuums. This allows the Neato to completely cover a room more quickly. Note in this video of a Neato demonstration how the robot builds a map of where it’s been and the obstacles it encounters. Especially note how it uses the lidar data to neatly circle the one obstacle.

Pi 2 and Lidar

I’m still very interested in robots although I’ve given up on the SRR contest. The lidars have been sitting on the shelf luring me like mythical Sirens. I finally succumbed to their call when I realized the lidar serial interface was a perfect match to a Raspberry Pi’s since both work at 3V3 levels. This would eliminate the USB interface. A similar effort is [Thomas Jesperson’s] in 2014 who used an STM32F429 board and produced a video of the lidar in action.

Lidar Physical

The lidar is a sealed unit with a motor hanging from one end. The motor drives a turret that rotates at around 300 rpm. The turret contains the laser and receive sensor and by spinning provides a 360 degree scan of the surrounding area. The laser and receive sensor have two optical ports out of the turret. There are two short cables with JST connectors coming from the lidar. A two pin connector provides power to the motor. A four pin connector provides 5V power to the control circuits and the 3V3 serial interface. The pinouts are:

Motor Cable

Red: 3V3 or PWM

Black: Ground
Interface Cable

Black: Ground

Red: 5V

Brown: RX

Orange: TX
In the vacuum, the motor is powered by a 12V source using PWM at around a 25% duty cycle. This means the motor needs around 3V to run at the right speed and subsequent testing by the hackers showed this is true. The USB interface board runs the lidar from the 5V input from the USB connector using PWM controlled by a a PID (Proportional Integral Differential) loop to maintain the motor’s speed. Why use PWM and PID? To maintain a constant RPM for the spinning turret as it wears and collects dirt, dust, and other detritus. In my testing I noted that the motor will turn the turret in either direction depending on the positive and negative connection. The interface still works fine but the sequence of the data points is going to be reversed. Normally the turret turns counter-clockwise.

A word of caution: in some early units the interface used 3V3 so connecting them to 5V may destroy the interface.

My original hook-up between the Pi and the lidar was quick and dirty. I connected the motor to the Pi’s 3V3 output and it worked. The output from the Pi 3V3 is limited to 50 mA by the specifications and the lidar Wiki says the motor would draw 64 mA. I measured mine and it drew considerably more. I also connected the interface’s TX pin to the Pi’s RX (pin 10). Using CuteCom under Raspbian Jessie I could read the data when the turret was manually spun. With those basic tests out of the way it was time to get a little more serious.

I elected to use a ULN2803A Darlington Transistor Array I found in my parts cabinet to drive the motor. This IC easily handles the current needed to drive the motor and includes the protective diodes required for driving an inductive load. I didn’t intended to do PWM of the motor but did want to turn it off and on. I connected the Pi’s 5V on pin 2 to the red wire on the motor connector. The black wired connected to the ULN2803A  through a 15 ohm resistor to drop the voltage. This setup low-side configuration for controlling the motor. The interface cable is connected to the 5V, ground, and RX pins on the Pi.



circuit layout 600 high
pi2 lidar schmatic 600




To test the motor control I used the mapping of the GPIO pins to the file system directory /sys/class/gpio. Each GPIO can be controlled here once the pin is exported. Commands can then set pins the direction and turn the pin on and off. The commands I used controlled GPIO 18 (pin 12):

echo 18 > /sys/class/gpio/export
 echo out > /sys/class/gpio/gpio18/direction
 echo 0 > /sys/class/gpio/gpio18/value
 echo 1 > /sys/class/gpio/gpio18/value
 
The ‘0’ and ‘1’ when echoed turn the pin off and on, respectively. This worked and I could see the data using CuteCom.

One interesting result occurs if you are connected to the serial port and then apply power to the interface. The lidar generates a welcome message:

Piccolo Laser Distance Scanner
Copyright (c) 2009-2011 Neato Robotics, Inc.
All Rights Reserved
Loader\0x09V2.5.15295
CPU\0x09F2802x/c001
Serial\0x09KSH34313AA-0140854
LastCal\0x09[5371726C]
Runtime\0x09V2.6.15295
Also, if you manually spin the turret, a message saying “Spin” appears and advises there is a command capability available by sending a break or three esc characters. Information on the commands is available on the Wiki.

Lidar Software

Now to create some rough software to see how all this works. Of course I used C++ so I installed the tool chain for the Pi 2 and find that the compilation speed is sufficient for development. I started using the Geany programming editor and makefiles; a setup I learned about while working with the Python code for the lidar. It handles multiple programming languages and I’ve adopted it as a general purpose text editor on Ubuntu and Raspian. But I eventually abandoned Geany and installed Eclipse CDT on the Pi when it wouldn’t properly reformat the C++ code after editing. Eclipse works surprisingly well on the Pi. I was actually a little disappointed in the switch since with Geany I was re-learning how to work with makefiles, a skill I’ve lost working with Eclipse.

While looking for information on programming the GPIO with C++ I found the WiringPi library by [Gordon Henderson]. It not only supports raw GPIO programming but supports many Pi daughter boards. An additional appeal to me is it has a serial port interface so I didn’t have to get into the details of that on Linux, which would have been new to me. Eventually, I even used its simple thread capability to handle an absurdly minimal user interface. [Gordon] also has a utility you should check out for controlling pins from the command line more completely than writing to the directories as I showed above.

The final piece I found in WiringPi is the ability to do hardware PWM on the one GPIO pin capable of it on the Pi. That is GPIO 18. I’d originally used GPIO 4 (pin 7) to control the motor but switched when I found this capability. The code currently sets a constant value for the PWM but eventually I want to add (and write an article about) a PID (Proportional Integral Differential) control system loop to maintain constant speed. Setting up WiringPi, a thread and the the PWM on GPIO 18 is easy:

wiringPiSetup();
  piHiPri(10);  // set program priority to run better
  piThreadCreate(key_read);
 
  pinMode(turret, PWM_OUTPUT);
  pwmWrite(turret, 950);
 
The thread is there simply to stop the program when any key is entered and return hit. When run is set to false, the main thread reading the serial input quits and the program exits after turning off the turret. The actual thread is dirt simple:

PI_THREAD(key_read) {
  cin.get();
  run = false;
  return 0;
 }
 
Reading the serial input is simple, just reading characters, but the data itself, while straightforward, requires a little bit banging. There are 360 samples per revolution of the turret so the amount of data at 5 revolutions per second is massive. There are 90 packets each containing four data points. Each point is represented by four bytes of data: distance, signal strength, invalid distance bit, and invalid strength bit. In addition, each packet begins with a start byte, an index byte which is the packet number, and two bytes for the turret rotation speed. The packet ends with two checksum bytes. Here’s how I mapped that data into structures:

struct DataPoint {
   bool invalid_data;
   bool bad_strength;
   float distance;
   unsigned int strength;
  };
 
  struct Block {
   unsigned int index;
   unsigned int speed;
  };
 
I didn’t get into storing the data packets, just reporting them to verify I was seeing good data and my calculations looked good. The distance data is an integer reported in millimeters which I converted to inches. The code for the checksum is on the Wiki but I haven’t implemented it yet.

Wrap Up

This is just the start of working with the Neato lidar but a good one. The hardware works well and the basics of the software are in hand. I can get the data and see that it is valid. The WiringPi library is a good find for continuing in my efforts with the Pi.

Next steps are to get the checksum routine working, expand the so-called user interface to allow controlling operation of the turret and adding a PID loop to maintain a constant speed of rotation. Since the UNL2803A chip is there I’ll use it to control the power to the interface. I also want to look at cross-compiling the code from my desktop and doing remote debugging. As I make those changes I’ll organize the code into classes and see how I can use it on a robot.



Filed under: Hackaday Columns, how-to, Raspberry Pi, robots hacks


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